Olomouc is surprisingly
absent from most tourists' must-see list. But then I suppose so are
many wonderful places in the Czech Republic. Now that flights from
the UK come into nearby Ostrava and Brno, let us hope that changes.
For that matter, Olomouc is also relatively easy to get to from Prague.
I recently visited
Olomouc as part of a holiday I had with my husband.
We did it as a day trip from Brno, but next time we will stay there.
As I have said before on this blog, my husband is a lover of
architecture. He even has his own blog dedicated to English
buildings. And so the historical centre of Olomouc with its stunning
collection of historic buildings went down a storm. Whilst he
wandered the streets and squares of the city, I headed off to check
out a restaurant where I can take him as a surprise.
The restaurant I was looking for is in a very different kind of
historic building from the renaissance and baroque town houses Phil
was photographing on the main square and surrounding streets.
The Primavesi Villa
stands on the edge of the old town near the Italianate church of St
Michal, overlooking one of the parks that circle the old town. The
Villa was built by the Primavesi family, who were to be important
sponsors of the Vienna Werkstätte. According to my old Rough Guide, it
was in a parlous state – it is no longer. The Villa has been lovingly
restored. Although the top floors
are used as offices, it is possible to visit the architecturally
important first floor where there is a gallery that is open Tuesdays-Saturdays; downstairs is a restaurant. The visitor can also wander through the
garden, gazing up at this important secessionist building, admiring
both its design and decoration.
The decoration is at
its most intense in the mosaic-covered entrance porch. But as I
looked around I saw decoration everywhere, from iron brackets curling
like pea shoots to the curving dragon-back of the garden wall. The
house was designed by the architects Franz von Krause and Josef Tokla
and its interiors were designed and furnished by designer Josef
Hoffmann, sculptor Anton Hanak and painter Gustav Klimt. The latter's
portrait of Mäda Primavesi can be seen in the Metropolitan Museum.
Sadly during the dereliction of the communist era most of the artwork
and furniture was dispersed, although some non-moveable elements are
still in situ. And it is possible to see furniture by Hoffmann in the
Olomouc Museum of Art.
I took a coffee at the
restaurant and
rejoined my husband in the town square.
