This little fellow came
with the house. He was here when we took possession of the place on
that bright sunny November morning in 2005. He has stood watch over
the approach to the front door ever since. In winter he wears a hat
of snow, in summer his paint fades and blisters still more. At times
he has guarded more than that. Keys were left under his feet and the
person who was to retrieve the key was told that “our little friend
has the keys.” When I leave this house for the last time, I will
leave it under his watchful eye. Like those ancient household Slavic gods (the Domovoy), you can't easily part a gnome from
his house.
Saturday 21 December 2019
Tuesday 10 December 2019
Wolves or not
A
friend and I were laughing recently about our mutual friend, Hannah,
who always denied that wolves could be in the Czech Republic. But
then she always denied that anything bad could be from the country.
Even if she had a flu it was because you had brought it from England.
Wolves
had been hunted to extinction here in the 19th century,
indeed there is a memorial in the Sumava to the last one. The big bad
wolf of the fairytales was banished to the forests of other
countries. And yet, the memory of wolves lived on in folk memory. I
felt it distinctly in the darkness of the forest I viewed from the
window of that night-bound train in Easter 1990. I felt it as I lay
in a bed piled high with duvets on those freezing nights of my first
stay in the house. As I heard the pad of snow dropping from the
broken roof I thought of wolf padding through the drifts at the rear of the house,
the following day my imaginings were reinforced by fox prints
enlarged by the melting of snow. Maybe that is why the first book I
wrote here was called Mother of Wolves.
The
big bad wolf is now officially back. He was first seen, caught on a
trip-camera near Vyssi Brod barely twenty miles from here. Wild
creatures do not respect lines on maps and once the physical barrier
of the Iron Curtain had been removed it was only a matter of time
before the wolves' wanderings brought them into the Sumava Forest and
beyond. It seems only right that EU freedom of movement should extend
to this beautiful animal, if not in future to Brits.
Wednesday 4 December 2019
Sumava - The Sound of the Forest
I have been listening to a delightful radio programme on the BBC called Susurrations of Trees - susurration is the English word for the sound trees make. The programme does not just explore the sound made by different trees, but also the different words we have for those sounds - psithurism for example is the sound of the wind in the trees. Of course the Czechs also have a word for it, but they go one step further their largest forest is called the psithurism - The Sumava (pronounced shoomava). My home is on the edge of it; the little town where I catch the bus is called Horice na Sumava.
The Sumava extends over the border with Germany, where it becomes the Bayerischer Wald ( the more mundane Bavarian Forest). This huge forest is the most extensive (over 54,000 hectares) in central Europe and has the nickname the Green Roof of Europe or sometimes the Green Lung of Europe. And I love it.
I have spoken in earlier posts of the importance of forests to the Czechs, that it has a role in the Czech mind that is equivalent to the sea to the British. Sometimes when I walk in the forest and a wind gets up I feel this connection strongly. The psithurism of the trees is so like the sound of waves that I could close my eyes and I think myself back on a British shore.
Saturday 30 November 2019
Dreaming Of Houses
I sometimes dream of houses; I did last night. Hannah used to take the Jungian line on house dreams that they are not about houses but about the dreamer, with the various floors representing the dreamer's different levels of consciousness. I just note that they tend to happen when I am busy organizing something about my Czech house, not that the house in my dreams is my Czech house.
When I was buying and reconstructing the house, I dreamed a lot about squeezing through a crack and finding new attics - huge and full of lovely beams. Later I dreamed I was going round and round a house, still squeezing through cracks but into hidden staircases and secret corridors.
Last night I had a different dream. I dreamed that I was sitting with Eliska, and we were talking about how lucky we were to have such nice lovely neighbours. I referred to the ones who had bought and done up the other half of my house. This is interesting as my real house is detached from the neighbours'. Maybe my dream talk was of the potential buyers of my house, who are keen to develop the barn which is attached to the house. I understand their enthusiasm, I too had big visions for the barn and ran out of money. It is one reason I was happy to accept their offer. We will see if their and my dreams come true.
Sunday 24 November 2019
Blogging
One
wonderful thing about my life in this country has been this blog. I
don't think I fully realized its importance to me until now. Writing
the blog was my first step towards starting writing again. Hannah
knew that and encouraged me.
Now
as my stay in this country draws to a close, I have a wonderful
record of my experiences, thoughts and feelings. My parents both
enjoyed reading the blog. Much as they would have loved to they were too elderly to visit my Czech
home, but the blog allowed them to share my adventures. And then of course there is you, dear
reader. I thank you for all your support and feedback. I hope you
enjoy the blog posts to come, because even when I leave the house, I will
continue blogging about the Czech Republic. I have a list of
blog-post topics I have yet to cover. The list of titles extends over several pages
in my notebook! And of course I will be visiting Czecho regularly.
This
blog is important in another way. I am working on a collection of
poems about my love and experience of the Czech Republic. This is
separate to the collection I will be publishing next year with Indigo Dreams. I have
written approximately half the collection and am working on more
poems. Without this blog triggering memories and feelings I doubt I
could write the new material. Watch this space.
Thursday 21 November 2019
Remembering Hannah
I
am in a strange state of mind. I have returned to finalize the house
sale. Unless things get delayed, which they might, this is my last
stay in my home. I am already saying goodbye to places I have loved
for years, and not just places.
As
I walked through the woods with Helena, and again when I went alone
up to the woods above my house, I found myself thinking a lot about
Hannah who introduced me to the Czech Republic and all things Czech.
I owe this whole Czech adventure to Hannah. I realised as I walked
with Helena, that the route was one that Hannah and I had followed on my first walk in a Czech
forest several years before I bought my house. The same was true of the woods above my home, where Hannah
gave me my first lesson in mushroom collecting. Over the brow of the
hill the woods drop down to the road to Lake Olsina, where Hannah had
her cottage.
Hannah's
main home was in Cesky Krumlov. She moved three times in that town,
so everywhere there are reminders of her. Although she died in April
2011, those memories never used to bother me. I always took comfort
from them. But now I am glad the willows planted on the island she
fought for have grown so large that they curtain the view of her last
home, where my memories are most painful.
Selling
my Czech home seems like letting her down. When she was dying she
worried that the little colony of Brits that had grown up about her
would break up. I told her: no offence but I didn't just buy the
house because of her and wasn't planning to sell up after her death.
She was relieved by this. It mattered a great deal to her that I
bought the house as a place to write poetry. She loved my poetry and
wanted to encourage it. The visit I made with her to Prague in 1990
was the inspiration behind my poem for voices Fool's Paradise.
I
was chatting to her son the other day, who told that his mother would
have been delighted that my poetry had suddenly blossomed and that at
last I have a book of poetry accepted for publication next year with
Indigo Dreams (more of that anon). I know too that Hannah would have
understood the fact that I now need to be in UK to pursue my poetry
dream. And yet...
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